As I sit here sipping some 10 year old Nikka whiskey I carted hundreds of kilometres in my pannier from Oichi, the town it was created, I can't put into words exactly what riding around Hokkaido was like. I know when I arrive at work tomorrow everyone will ask how it was, all I'll be able to say is, 'awesome', 'the best in the world', 'some kind of cycle touring Mecca'!!!! But there'll be now way to convince someone in a short conversation of the immense diversity of the island, the friendliness of its people and the isolation from the western world. So on this weblog, through words and pictures, I'll try to convey what Tom and I experience; then you can sit back and dream, make your own plans or make an excuse; but hopefully you get some idea of what it was like for us.
I'd been planning a touring trip this year, due to work commitments my plan of a month in Europe was on thin ice, so when Tom made me aware of his experiences in Hokkaido in the snow season and his desire to see it in summer, I was all for it. Rocky coastlines, tiny villages, rainforest, snow covered volcanoes and beer; what could be better?
So we booked flights and started planning. The plan consisted of packing our bikes, flying, landing, staying at Toyasata on night one and..............well that was it. Entirely by ear we'd circumnavigate the island in an anti-clockwise direction. (Out of interest, it ended up being more of a figure eight, with a train ride in the middle!!)
Just a quick note: I'm not going to apologise for the quality and/or arrangement of the images that follow. The truth is, I carried four cameras (Nikon D90, Leica M6, Panasonic DMC-LX3 and the iPhone) and Tom carried his own (with cool panoramic mode). While I love taking photos that will serve as life long memories, I've long outgrown the urge to spend hours taking a perfect photo only to spend more time processing it on a computer; not my thing anymore; so the images are what they are, almost straight from the camera. I've also mixed the images up in order to present them chronologically, it'll be pretty easy to tell them apart, especially the great special effects the iPhone brings with it. So the page may look a little messy; but it's kinda like our attitude to the trip, we took it as it came and it worked out flawlessly in the end!
I'd been planning a touring trip this year, due to work commitments my plan of a month in Europe was on thin ice, so when Tom made me aware of his experiences in Hokkaido in the snow season and his desire to see it in summer, I was all for it. Rocky coastlines, tiny villages, rainforest, snow covered volcanoes and beer; what could be better?
So we booked flights and started planning. The plan consisted of packing our bikes, flying, landing, staying at Toyasata on night one and..............well that was it. Entirely by ear we'd circumnavigate the island in an anti-clockwise direction. (Out of interest, it ended up being more of a figure eight, with a train ride in the middle!!)
Just a quick note: I'm not going to apologise for the quality and/or arrangement of the images that follow. The truth is, I carried four cameras (Nikon D90, Leica M6, Panasonic DMC-LX3 and the iPhone) and Tom carried his own (with cool panoramic mode). While I love taking photos that will serve as life long memories, I've long outgrown the urge to spend hours taking a perfect photo only to spend more time processing it on a computer; not my thing anymore; so the images are what they are, almost straight from the camera. I've also mixed the images up in order to present them chronologically, it'll be pretty easy to tell them apart, especially the great special effects the iPhone brings with it. So the page may look a little messy; but it's kinda like our attitude to the trip, we took it as it came and it worked out flawlessly in the end!
Day zero: Canberra to Chitose - 8850km
I'd sent out a note offering a free lunch and beer in exchange for a lift to the bus station, mostly as a result of my general hatred for taxi drivers these days but also as insurance against their failure to turn up and my yearning to nourish my friends. So Henry and I enjoyed my last burger and beer in Australia before I caught the bus for Sydney international airport and tried to bargain my way into premium economy seating (Tom had already been successful in Melbourne so it was my job to try and match his seat). I did and we boarded the plane to discover that we had enough room to conduct 'activities' (queue: 'Step Brothers') on the floor in front of our seats. So we ate, drank, slept and arrived in Tokyo, where out bikes were inspected at length by a security officer who was as confused as us as to why she had to check out bikes over. Much was lost in translation as we tried to ask just what she was looking for; in the end I figured she was just 'doing her job', much like a lot of Japan where even some street signs are held up by human beings.
Day 1: Chitose airport to Toyosata - 65.62km
As we landed in Chitose we began formulating a plan with respect to exactly how things would work when we returned to the airport to fly out of the country. It seemed they had never seen or considered travelling by air with a bicycle so had no bike boxes for us to purchase once we returned. The $AUS70 storage fee for the boxes seemed to be the only way, so we unpacked, built out bikes and deposited out boxes.
We headed south on roads that seemed too good to be true. Wide and empty with either spacious marked shoulders or entire bike paths the size of roads. In what was practically a commute to get us out of civilisation we followed the old highway which was now bypassed by a modern expressway. The signs of what previously must have been a busy tourist thoroughfare were everywhere, with derelict service stations and signage of days gone by. I did however, begin my adventure in Japan with a spot of luck, after putting my hand into what looked like a Japanese torture machine and turned out to be a lucky dip it seems I had one a free bowl of two minute noodles........lucky me.....
Eventually we heard the roar of the ocean and caught glimpses of it as we rolled along the mostly flat and straight roads then hit the rolling hills and semi-industrial coastal towns. Slightly concerned at how far we were riding inland, we followed directions to the hostel we'd be spending the night at, the only booked accommodation of the entire trip. A hand built wooden house, a friendly and barely English speaking lady (okasan, 'mother of the house' to us) and her seemingly disgruntled husband (otosan, 'father of the house' to us). We weren't in Kansas anymore and once we settled in, beer was cracked, the next day's route was planned and dinner served fresh from the kitchen. Once we figured out how to build a Japanese bed we were off to sleep.
I'd sent out a note offering a free lunch and beer in exchange for a lift to the bus station, mostly as a result of my general hatred for taxi drivers these days but also as insurance against their failure to turn up and my yearning to nourish my friends. So Henry and I enjoyed my last burger and beer in Australia before I caught the bus for Sydney international airport and tried to bargain my way into premium economy seating (Tom had already been successful in Melbourne so it was my job to try and match his seat). I did and we boarded the plane to discover that we had enough room to conduct 'activities' (queue: 'Step Brothers') on the floor in front of our seats. So we ate, drank, slept and arrived in Tokyo, where out bikes were inspected at length by a security officer who was as confused as us as to why she had to check out bikes over. Much was lost in translation as we tried to ask just what she was looking for; in the end I figured she was just 'doing her job', much like a lot of Japan where even some street signs are held up by human beings.
Day 1: Chitose airport to Toyosata - 65.62km
As we landed in Chitose we began formulating a plan with respect to exactly how things would work when we returned to the airport to fly out of the country. It seemed they had never seen or considered travelling by air with a bicycle so had no bike boxes for us to purchase once we returned. The $AUS70 storage fee for the boxes seemed to be the only way, so we unpacked, built out bikes and deposited out boxes.
We headed south on roads that seemed too good to be true. Wide and empty with either spacious marked shoulders or entire bike paths the size of roads. In what was practically a commute to get us out of civilisation we followed the old highway which was now bypassed by a modern expressway. The signs of what previously must have been a busy tourist thoroughfare were everywhere, with derelict service stations and signage of days gone by. I did however, begin my adventure in Japan with a spot of luck, after putting my hand into what looked like a Japanese torture machine and turned out to be a lucky dip it seems I had one a free bowl of two minute noodles........lucky me.....
Eventually we heard the roar of the ocean and caught glimpses of it as we rolled along the mostly flat and straight roads then hit the rolling hills and semi-industrial coastal towns. Slightly concerned at how far we were riding inland, we followed directions to the hostel we'd be spending the night at, the only booked accommodation of the entire trip. A hand built wooden house, a friendly and barely English speaking lady (okasan, 'mother of the house' to us) and her seemingly disgruntled husband (otosan, 'father of the house' to us). We weren't in Kansas anymore and once we settled in, beer was cracked, the next day's route was planned and dinner served fresh from the kitchen. Once we figured out how to build a Japanese bed we were off to sleep.
Day 2: Toyosata to Erimo - 115.34km by bike (12km by car)
The breakfast of champions was served from the wood stove overlooking the farm. We held limited conversation with okasan to figure out the next best stop. It turned out Erimo, a remote coastal village on the southern tip of Hokkaido would be the best bet, and it had a hostel. She made a call for us, gave us direction on a piece of paper (in Japanese) and waved us off until we were out of sight!
The morning consisted of rolling coastal roads punctuated by relatively heavily industrial fishing towns frequented by what seemed to be commuting workers and trucks. The crowdedness of the roads didn't faze us as there was almost always a shoulder and the drivers were more than considerate. We stopped in a larger town in order to allow Tom to buy a lock for our bikes (and mail home the keyless one he brought, along with his shoes and other 'heavy things') and soon it was getting close to lunch, so we stopped at the first place we saw with flags flying (their version of an open sign). To say the meal we were presented with was 'satisfying' was an understatement. Not a word of English was spoken or written in the house, but someone had drawn a pig on a sign alongside what looked to be a list of items (obviously a 'set meal') so I ordered that and Tom managed to order a soup set using his phrase book.
The breakfast of champions was served from the wood stove overlooking the farm. We held limited conversation with okasan to figure out the next best stop. It turned out Erimo, a remote coastal village on the southern tip of Hokkaido would be the best bet, and it had a hostel. She made a call for us, gave us direction on a piece of paper (in Japanese) and waved us off until we were out of sight!
The morning consisted of rolling coastal roads punctuated by relatively heavily industrial fishing towns frequented by what seemed to be commuting workers and trucks. The crowdedness of the roads didn't faze us as there was almost always a shoulder and the drivers were more than considerate. We stopped in a larger town in order to allow Tom to buy a lock for our bikes (and mail home the keyless one he brought, along with his shoes and other 'heavy things') and soon it was getting close to lunch, so we stopped at the first place we saw with flags flying (their version of an open sign). To say the meal we were presented with was 'satisfying' was an understatement. Not a word of English was spoken or written in the house, but someone had drawn a pig on a sign alongside what looked to be a list of items (obviously a 'set meal') so I ordered that and Tom managed to order a soup set using his phrase book.
One thing we had noticed in out short stay was the fact that the locals were quite aware that we could not speak or read Japanese but completely unaware that we could not understand the spoken word. The old lady at the house had to be reminded of this fact by the teenager who laughed every time she'd rattle off a long winded sentence expecting us to reply!
As the day went on the towns became more quaint and less industrial, some with paved streets and bakeries and other FULL of hair dressers, hundreds of them! We did however, notice that the weather was getting considerably worse and we were heading into a strong headwind. We figured the best survival strategy was for me to take the lead and shield Tom from the wind as we fought onward, with still around 40km to go.
We reached a town which we thought was the Erimo in our directions. We passed through it and found nothing resembling a hostel. It was freezing cold, we were buggered and the weather seemed to be getting worse so we stopped for directions at the last place I expected to find help, a small local store isolated on the outskirts of town. Tom was inside for what seemed an eternity then poked his head out and told me that the owner's daughter, Yuko, spoke English and they could help us. I headed inside out of the wind and Yuko's mother handed us two cans of coffee, piping hot out of what looked like a fridge but was actually a type of 'coffee-can-oven'!
As the day went on the towns became more quaint and less industrial, some with paved streets and bakeries and other FULL of hair dressers, hundreds of them! We did however, notice that the weather was getting considerably worse and we were heading into a strong headwind. We figured the best survival strategy was for me to take the lead and shield Tom from the wind as we fought onward, with still around 40km to go.
We reached a town which we thought was the Erimo in our directions. We passed through it and found nothing resembling a hostel. It was freezing cold, we were buggered and the weather seemed to be getting worse so we stopped for directions at the last place I expected to find help, a small local store isolated on the outskirts of town. Tom was inside for what seemed an eternity then poked his head out and told me that the owner's daughter, Yuko, spoke English and they could help us. I headed inside out of the wind and Yuko's mother handed us two cans of coffee, piping hot out of what looked like a fridge but was actually a type of 'coffee-can-oven'!
Yuko rang the hostel and it was obvious it'd be too far and too treacherous to ride as the town we were headed for was further down on the exposed tip of the peninsular, so we asked about accommodation in town. Without a second thought Yuko asked how big our bikes were, and within minutes we were squeezing our bikes into the smallest van in the world.
We discovered that we were suffering through the weather effects of a monsoon on the mainland, so when we arrived at the hostel and met Senba, she asked how long we'd be staying. We suggested it may be a couple of night the way the weather was looking. She checked us in, and then showed us around. I must admit we were somewhat puzzled when she show us our room - a large almost empty room, floor covered in straw mats and a coffee table in the middle. It wasn't until we opened the wardrobe that we found matts and sheets to sleep on, along with a pillow that seems full of some kind of grain. Either way, they were comfortable and we were out of the weather.
We warmed up in the recreation/dining room and met everyone else in the place. Yuko, out of the kindness of her heart decided to stay the night and was invaluable in making it a great night by translating where she could. The beer flowed, as it seemed Senba was renowned for her love of the amber liquid, and a young looking man by the name of Yoshihiro Shibahara regaled us all night (we later found out he was 52!).
We discovered that we were suffering through the weather effects of a monsoon on the mainland, so when we arrived at the hostel and met Senba, she asked how long we'd be staying. We suggested it may be a couple of night the way the weather was looking. She checked us in, and then showed us around. I must admit we were somewhat puzzled when she show us our room - a large almost empty room, floor covered in straw mats and a coffee table in the middle. It wasn't until we opened the wardrobe that we found matts and sheets to sleep on, along with a pillow that seems full of some kind of grain. Either way, they were comfortable and we were out of the weather.
We warmed up in the recreation/dining room and met everyone else in the place. Yuko, out of the kindness of her heart decided to stay the night and was invaluable in making it a great night by translating where she could. The beer flowed, as it seemed Senba was renowned for her love of the amber liquid, and a young looking man by the name of Yoshihiro Shibahara regaled us all night (we later found out he was 52!).
As it turned out, Senba's late husband was quite the photographer. I found albums dating from the early seventies through to the nineties. Ordinarily this wouldn't be all that exciting, but it seems he shared the same passion I have for the normal; photos of them and their friends, unstaged and natural. If it weren't for the fashion they could have been taken that day. I spent hours browsing.
Day 3: Erimo to Obihiro - 126.75km
We awoke to blue sky, hazy, but blue. Winds were not as strong as we'd expected so after a more traditional breakfast containing a few mysterious substances (but no seafood on Tom's request) we were seen off with home-made rice balls and a fanfare to rival the Mardi Gras. As we rode off into the distance we could see Selba, Yoshihiro and a handful of other guests still standing in the middle of the road screaming and waving their huge flags, wishing us well on our journey, which began into a headwind.....
We would be following what was known locally as the 'Golden Road' due to the amount of money that had been poured into it, soon enough we figured out why. The first 50km of the day were made up of roads connecting primitive fishing villages, mostly busy farming seaweed due to the weather on the day, and winding along the rocky coastline. What was amazing was the modernity of these roads and the fact that we were riding through tunnels that were often as long as 5km! Without such quality roads and protection from the elements we may have suffered a far longer day but instead found ourselves heading inland sooner than we'd estimated.
We awoke to blue sky, hazy, but blue. Winds were not as strong as we'd expected so after a more traditional breakfast containing a few mysterious substances (but no seafood on Tom's request) we were seen off with home-made rice balls and a fanfare to rival the Mardi Gras. As we rode off into the distance we could see Selba, Yoshihiro and a handful of other guests still standing in the middle of the road screaming and waving their huge flags, wishing us well on our journey, which began into a headwind.....
We would be following what was known locally as the 'Golden Road' due to the amount of money that had been poured into it, soon enough we figured out why. The first 50km of the day were made up of roads connecting primitive fishing villages, mostly busy farming seaweed due to the weather on the day, and winding along the rocky coastline. What was amazing was the modernity of these roads and the fact that we were riding through tunnels that were often as long as 5km! Without such quality roads and protection from the elements we may have suffered a far longer day but instead found ourselves heading inland sooner than we'd estimated.
Before we knew it we were stripping layers of clothes, eating in bakeries and riding through farmland and forest, a far cry from being stuck in the Erimo hostel as we had predicted. It was a gamble to make the 130km run for Obihiro but it had well and truly paid off, with the headwinds of earlier turning to tail winds and us finding shelter from the coastal weather by riding inland.
We reached Obihiro and booked a room across from the train station where we experienced more confusion as to why we would want to keep our bikes safe and indoors, as they were only bikes! After the check in girl understood our strange concerns our bikes we kept safe and sound within metres of the check in counter, first class storage.
One of the bigger towns on Hokkaido, we roamed for quite some time before devouring a late lunch and roaming a real Japanese shopping centre. Then it was time for dinner, where Tomo (the head waiter) assisted us to order in broken English and with hand written notes from other staff who knew bits and pieces.
We reached Obihiro and booked a room across from the train station where we experienced more confusion as to why we would want to keep our bikes safe and indoors, as they were only bikes! After the check in girl understood our strange concerns our bikes we kept safe and sound within metres of the check in counter, first class storage.
One of the bigger towns on Hokkaido, we roamed for quite some time before devouring a late lunch and roaming a real Japanese shopping centre. Then it was time for dinner, where Tomo (the head waiter) assisted us to order in broken English and with hand written notes from other staff who knew bits and pieces.
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