Day 4: Obihiro to Rikubetsu - 111km
From big city to quaint ski village we couldn't believe out luck to have a strong tailwind almost the entire way, on what were relatively flat roads with nice wide shoulders and open quiet farmland. By comparison with Australia, the part of Hokkaido we travelled through on day 4 was reminiscent of central NSW farmland. Some towns were alive with business and well cared for buildings, while others were ghost towns with dilapidated buildings and run down businesses. Each with their own charm it wasn't until we hit Ashoro that we found a town that seemed without any charm. We knicknamed it 'Ass-holo' and quickly decided, after the biggest burger I’ve eaten in years, to continue on to Rikubetsu, a decision we were glad we made.
The train line along the corridor we'd ridden from the farmland of Ashoro into the forest lined mountains that day, was shut down recently, which explained some of the obvious economic downturn in the regional towns. It also left some towns with huge buildings (train stations) sitting empty, so what did Rikubetsu do with theirs? They turned it into a very well appointed hostel/hotel! We checked in and undertook what was to be a daily ritual - one of us found a beer vending machine while the other showered. After we'd freshened up we headed into town for a walk and spied a temple on the hill, which we visited as the sun dropped below the horizon. Then, as recommended by the second English speaking Japanese we'd encountered, visited the local noodle house. No English spoken there but we rustled up the support of the only other soul in the place, a well dressed local who helped us order!
From big city to quaint ski village we couldn't believe out luck to have a strong tailwind almost the entire way, on what were relatively flat roads with nice wide shoulders and open quiet farmland. By comparison with Australia, the part of Hokkaido we travelled through on day 4 was reminiscent of central NSW farmland. Some towns were alive with business and well cared for buildings, while others were ghost towns with dilapidated buildings and run down businesses. Each with their own charm it wasn't until we hit Ashoro that we found a town that seemed without any charm. We knicknamed it 'Ass-holo' and quickly decided, after the biggest burger I’ve eaten in years, to continue on to Rikubetsu, a decision we were glad we made.
The train line along the corridor we'd ridden from the farmland of Ashoro into the forest lined mountains that day, was shut down recently, which explained some of the obvious economic downturn in the regional towns. It also left some towns with huge buildings (train stations) sitting empty, so what did Rikubetsu do with theirs? They turned it into a very well appointed hostel/hotel! We checked in and undertook what was to be a daily ritual - one of us found a beer vending machine while the other showered. After we'd freshened up we headed into town for a walk and spied a temple on the hill, which we visited as the sun dropped below the horizon. Then, as recommended by the second English speaking Japanese we'd encountered, visited the local noodle house. No English spoken there but we rustled up the support of the only other soul in the place, a well dressed local who helped us order!
Day 5: Rikubetsu to Monbetsu - 135.8km
Our breakfast was already set out by the time we hit the dining area. You guessed it - picked squid. I tried so hard to finish it but a small bowl of squid just isn't a breakfast food that gives you what you need to ride 140km over the range to the coast. So we began another ritual - visiting the local Seicomart or 7eleven to stock up on delicious rice balls for our journey. Some packages have a photo on the label to let you know what is hidden deep inside the sticky rice, however, it was luck of the draw when there was no picture - many a rice ball never saw my digestive tract........
It was beautiful riding through the mountains again that morning, past many small ski resorts and abandoned railway stations. We headed up hill for an hour or so before we were lucky enough to speed over nine km of gradual downhill. More ups and downs punctuated the journey until we eventually hit farmland again at the top of Hokkaido. It had only been a few days but we'd already cut the island in half and were on our way to the north coast. The roads were easy, and the farmland somewhat more interesting and alive than in the south. Tom was enjoying a slower pace on the day so we split up to enjoy some time on our own (his pace may have had something to do with the dog food he sampled in a certain bakery - all the dog photos surrounding the 'samples bowl' must have been lost in translation - see pic below)
Our breakfast was already set out by the time we hit the dining area. You guessed it - picked squid. I tried so hard to finish it but a small bowl of squid just isn't a breakfast food that gives you what you need to ride 140km over the range to the coast. So we began another ritual - visiting the local Seicomart or 7eleven to stock up on delicious rice balls for our journey. Some packages have a photo on the label to let you know what is hidden deep inside the sticky rice, however, it was luck of the draw when there was no picture - many a rice ball never saw my digestive tract........
It was beautiful riding through the mountains again that morning, past many small ski resorts and abandoned railway stations. We headed up hill for an hour or so before we were lucky enough to speed over nine km of gradual downhill. More ups and downs punctuated the journey until we eventually hit farmland again at the top of Hokkaido. It had only been a few days but we'd already cut the island in half and were on our way to the north coast. The roads were easy, and the farmland somewhat more interesting and alive than in the south. Tom was enjoying a slower pace on the day so we split up to enjoy some time on our own (his pace may have had something to do with the dog food he sampled in a certain bakery - all the dog photos surrounding the 'samples bowl' must have been lost in translation - see pic below)
Soon enough the sea came into view and the huge fishing city of Monbetsu loomed on the coast, nestled between the mountains and the sea. Its surrounding industrial area enveloped us for many km before we were able to turn toward the esplanade and find a somewhat fruitless information beaureau. We decided to ride toward the tallest buildings and find a hotel, in our experience nothing was expensive and it turned out that even at room at what seemed to be the ritziest hotel only set us back $AUS60 each a night. We underwent our nightly beer/shower ritual and headed off toward the closest Seicomart for a six pack of Sapporo Classic, then it was down to the wharf to watch the half submerged fully laden fishing boats steam into port before they were promptly evacuated of all fish and seemed to sit on top of the water in comparison. I'm not sure what the locals thought of us, but considering all the signs in town were half Japanese half Russian, they probably just assumed we were drunkard Ruskies. In fact, once we'd finished out beers we headed for the first restaurant we could find and were promptly seated by a slightly uncomfortable old man in his tiny rustic restaurant. When he figured out we were in fact Australian, not Russian, he apologised profusely and relaxed, to do his books at the table beside us and feed us beer and crab cooked by his wife in the kitchen, alongside their lounge room!
Day 6: Monbetsu to Shibetsu - 116.34km
The map reconnaissance of the day's riding ahead had me slightly concerned that the route we'd be taking to avoid the mountains would be less than appealing. It turned out I was right, although the coutryside still held its charm and certainly wasn't boring. Once we crossed the range we began to see occasional rice paddies, until we were surrounded by them in every direction, wedged between steep hills, scattered with farmhouses. The long drag into Shibetsu had us resort to riding on the foot path as the traffic was near on unbearable between the two bigger towns of Nayoro and Shibetsu. The setting sun combined with the haze of the day cast an apocalyptic light over the town, but having already covered 115km we had no choice but to hole up. We found what was again the ritziest hotel and checked in, our bikes secured in the glamorous function room we commenced the beer/shower routine and hit the town for Yakitori (meat on a stick). We'd experienced the friendliest people on the trip so far, all going out of their way to help despite a lack of a common language; the lady at the restaurant we visited found it easier to ignore us and steer us well clear of the fresh asparagus we spied in her fridge! But all was well; we sat, engulfed in BBQ and cigarette smoke and enjoyed the perfectly cooked meat that was presented on hand gesture and broken Japanese request.
The map reconnaissance of the day's riding ahead had me slightly concerned that the route we'd be taking to avoid the mountains would be less than appealing. It turned out I was right, although the coutryside still held its charm and certainly wasn't boring. Once we crossed the range we began to see occasional rice paddies, until we were surrounded by them in every direction, wedged between steep hills, scattered with farmhouses. The long drag into Shibetsu had us resort to riding on the foot path as the traffic was near on unbearable between the two bigger towns of Nayoro and Shibetsu. The setting sun combined with the haze of the day cast an apocalyptic light over the town, but having already covered 115km we had no choice but to hole up. We found what was again the ritziest hotel and checked in, our bikes secured in the glamorous function room we commenced the beer/shower routine and hit the town for Yakitori (meat on a stick). We'd experienced the friendliest people on the trip so far, all going out of their way to help despite a lack of a common language; the lady at the restaurant we visited found it easier to ignore us and steer us well clear of the fresh asparagus we spied in her fridge! But all was well; we sat, engulfed in BBQ and cigarette smoke and enjoyed the perfectly cooked meat that was presented on hand gesture and broken Japanese request.
Day 7: Shibetsu to Biei - 88km
Now we were getting into the country we were looking forward to, snow capped mountains and rolling hills, summer ski slopes and hot springs. The only thing lying between us was the major city of Asahikawa. I wasn't dreading the city itself but the seemingly endless industrial surrounds of most major cities we'd encountered. Luckily we'd learned a lesson since we'd been in the country, and that was to find the major river that flows through the town and follow the parkland and bitumen paths that parallel it. Asahikawa was no different and in this case we cut endless traffic lights from out journey, while also allowing us to wave at the usual Park-Golf fanatics along the grassy parkland.
We cut through town in record time and were soon back on the flat straight roads express to Biei. Tom was feeling a bit average and were both we suffering from a sore knee or two from the pace we'd been setting, so I headed off again until I found a fantastic little cafe full of motor bikes and memorabilia. I turned around and found Tom to make sure he didn't stop somewhere else and we enjoyed beer and pizza to fuel us for the remainder of the journey. I watched out the window as the weather seemed to be turning, then once we finished upped the pace to Biei so that I could find the hostel and guide Tom in before he reached town.
Now we were getting into the country we were looking forward to, snow capped mountains and rolling hills, summer ski slopes and hot springs. The only thing lying between us was the major city of Asahikawa. I wasn't dreading the city itself but the seemingly endless industrial surrounds of most major cities we'd encountered. Luckily we'd learned a lesson since we'd been in the country, and that was to find the major river that flows through the town and follow the parkland and bitumen paths that parallel it. Asahikawa was no different and in this case we cut endless traffic lights from out journey, while also allowing us to wave at the usual Park-Golf fanatics along the grassy parkland.
We cut through town in record time and were soon back on the flat straight roads express to Biei. Tom was feeling a bit average and were both we suffering from a sore knee or two from the pace we'd been setting, so I headed off again until I found a fantastic little cafe full of motor bikes and memorabilia. I turned around and found Tom to make sure he didn't stop somewhere else and we enjoyed beer and pizza to fuel us for the remainder of the journey. I watched out the window as the weather seemed to be turning, then once we finished upped the pace to Biei so that I could find the hostel and guide Tom in before he reached town.
The rain started just as we headed quite a way out of town, through the hills to the hostel. We checked in to a beautiful a spacey hostel with wide open views of farmers fields and the backdrop of snow capped mountains. Then it was a quick drive into town by the staff and a roam around in the rain before we stopped at the only place that seemed open and not fully booked, a kind of franchise that served huge meals that we more than appreciated, as well as locally produced beer.
Next stop was a cosy Yakitori bar that we stopped at for a couple of beers. Out came the Sapporo Classic and complimentary edamame, the owner brought out a tray of Yakitori to show us what he had so I ordered the chicken, which came out exquisitely cooked, on the brink of being rare but definitely not pink. Juicy! Soon after we arrived a man in work clothes arrived, obviously fresh from his farm; he sat down and a green bottle, next to scores of other green bottles on the shelves, was plonked in front of him. It seems everyone has their own bottle, named and kept on the premises. There was a little chatter before he handed over a large bag of white and green asparagus, obviously in exchange for his dinner. As we sat, slowly finishing pint after pint of beer the owner came from the other side of the bar with a plate of fresh BBQ's asparagus, as thick as your thumb! The mystery of just what was in the green bottles got the most of us so Tom wondered over to a line up of bottles and checked it out, it was Soju from Korea, although in Japan it's called Chochou. The farmer caught us checking out the liquor and swiftly asked the lady of the house for two classes with ice, then filled them almost to the top and handed them over; a refreshing after dinner palette cleanser! Eventually it was time to leave as the handful of other patrons began to leave so we finished up our beers - alas, before we could leave the owner came back around the bar with two large glasses of his best Sake, delicious!
Next stop was a cosy Yakitori bar that we stopped at for a couple of beers. Out came the Sapporo Classic and complimentary edamame, the owner brought out a tray of Yakitori to show us what he had so I ordered the chicken, which came out exquisitely cooked, on the brink of being rare but definitely not pink. Juicy! Soon after we arrived a man in work clothes arrived, obviously fresh from his farm; he sat down and a green bottle, next to scores of other green bottles on the shelves, was plonked in front of him. It seems everyone has their own bottle, named and kept on the premises. There was a little chatter before he handed over a large bag of white and green asparagus, obviously in exchange for his dinner. As we sat, slowly finishing pint after pint of beer the owner came from the other side of the bar with a plate of fresh BBQ's asparagus, as thick as your thumb! The mystery of just what was in the green bottles got the most of us so Tom wondered over to a line up of bottles and checked it out, it was Soju from Korea, although in Japan it's called Chochou. The farmer caught us checking out the liquor and swiftly asked the lady of the house for two classes with ice, then filled them almost to the top and handed them over; a refreshing after dinner palette cleanser! Eventually it was time to leave as the handful of other patrons began to leave so we finished up our beers - alas, before we could leave the owner came back around the bar with two large glasses of his best Sake, delicious!
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