Day 11: Base camp Hirafu - 27km by bike and half a day by car
Tosan offered us a tour of the region by car after he finished his tennis coaching at lunch so we had half a day to explore the immediate area. Our first destination was Half Moon Lake on the side of Mt Yotei, the ride around it on quasi single track was fun although it seemed to annoy the local naturalists. Then a pleasant road tour of Niseko and its surrounds to roll our legs finished up at the local outdoor store/cafe where we enjoyed the best choc/banan/cinamon smoothies that side of Sapporo.
Tosan offered us a tour of the region by car after he finished his tennis coaching at lunch so we had half a day to explore the immediate area. Our first destination was Half Moon Lake on the side of Mt Yotei, the ride around it on quasi single track was fun although it seemed to annoy the local naturalists. Then a pleasant road tour of Niseko and its surrounds to roll our legs finished up at the local outdoor store/cafe where we enjoyed the best choc/banan/cinamon smoothies that side of Sapporo.
Route 66 to Iwani on the coast had just recently been reopened after the snow season, so we packed the car with a picnic lunch and headed of into the hills via the tastiest natural spring I have encountered since the Norwegian Alps. Reminiscent of Rotarua, New Zealand, we stopped at a stinky thermal pool before we hit the top of the mountain for a short walk into a beautiful marshland national park, through patches of snow the flowers were starting bloom and the water in the ponds was crystal clear.
Kosan had conjured up the most fantastic picnic lunch with rice balls, fried chicken, vegetables and Japanese egg pancakes. Well satisfied it was a long drive down the other side of the mountain to Iwani before we hit roads very reminiscent of the island's south eastern Golden Road. Tosan made me feel slightly uncomfortable with his constant stories of collapsed tunnels; I was fine when we were driving through the newer one's, which were gradually being replaced, but the old narrow one's were a little scary, especially when he commented, "a few years ago this tunnel collapsed just here and killed a bus load of people........."
Kosan had conjured up the most fantastic picnic lunch with rice balls, fried chicken, vegetables and Japanese egg pancakes. Well satisfied it was a long drive down the other side of the mountain to Iwani before we hit roads very reminiscent of the island's south eastern Golden Road. Tosan made me feel slightly uncomfortable with his constant stories of collapsed tunnels; I was fine when we were driving through the newer one's, which were gradually being replaced, but the old narrow one's were a little scary, especially when he commented, "a few years ago this tunnel collapsed just here and killed a bus load of people........."
Cape Kamui was out next destination after we stopped for ice-cream and a short display of amazing long rod fishing on the coast road. The cape was breathtaking.
I had planned to try and make it to Oichi, where Nikka whiskey was made. It was going to be late when we arrived so no distillery tour was on the cards but no more than a hundred metres from the factory was a fish/liquor/grocery market where I picked up a bottle of Ten year old malt and Kosan bought fresh seafood for our dinner. Arriving back at the pension in the dark Tosan directed us to meet across the road at a small hand built lodge that he owned for a BBQ - the most impressive BBQ feast I have ever encountered, and I'm Australian!
Then Tosan whispered inmy ear that he wanted to show me his camera colection (much of which Kosan knows nothing about!) and his bikes. Then it was into the bar below the house (which pumps out live jazz in winter) for a very impressive drum demo!
I had planned to try and make it to Oichi, where Nikka whiskey was made. It was going to be late when we arrived so no distillery tour was on the cards but no more than a hundred metres from the factory was a fish/liquor/grocery market where I picked up a bottle of Ten year old malt and Kosan bought fresh seafood for our dinner. Arriving back at the pension in the dark Tosan directed us to meet across the road at a small hand built lodge that he owned for a BBQ - the most impressive BBQ feast I have ever encountered, and I'm Australian!
Then Tosan whispered inmy ear that he wanted to show me his camera colection (much of which Kosan knows nothing about!) and his bikes. Then it was into the bar below the house (which pumps out live jazz in winter) for a very impressive drum demo!
Day 12: Hirafu to Sapporo - 101.5km
The great race began at around 9am. I was to ride the mysterious and reportedly desolate route 393 over the mountains, into Otaru and then along route 5 into the big city of Sapporo. Tom was to have a drum lesson with his drumming idol Tosan, then catch a series of trains to Sapporo assemble his bike and ride to the Hotel Ramada, where we would rendezvous.
I was waved off in the traditional Japanese way and 16km later was tap dancing out of the saddle and into the mountains. Again a nice gradient lifted me over a range and into a tunnel, the last time I would see Mt Yotei. Then something strange happened, I rode downhill for almost 10km, at one stage a truck struggled to overtake me as I was already over the speed limit. I then sat behind him and actually had to brake as he couldn't corner at speed like I could. Crystal clear streams flowed under the road endlessly and the forest was thick with bamboo and pine. It seemed I was now on the plateau where small farms were wedged between hillsides. I found the only ice-cream shop Tosan talked of and stopped for refreshment. Soon enough I was back at snow level after some long climbs and the long switchback downhill into Otaru began. I had devised a short cut and lost 10km from the trip by avoiding Otaru itself, this was all well and good, but the entire 35km to Sapporo was built up industrial or residential land. No rest on the bike, just timed traffic light after timed traffic light (Why can't they install sensors!!!!!!).
The great race began at around 9am. I was to ride the mysterious and reportedly desolate route 393 over the mountains, into Otaru and then along route 5 into the big city of Sapporo. Tom was to have a drum lesson with his drumming idol Tosan, then catch a series of trains to Sapporo assemble his bike and ride to the Hotel Ramada, where we would rendezvous.
I was waved off in the traditional Japanese way and 16km later was tap dancing out of the saddle and into the mountains. Again a nice gradient lifted me over a range and into a tunnel, the last time I would see Mt Yotei. Then something strange happened, I rode downhill for almost 10km, at one stage a truck struggled to overtake me as I was already over the speed limit. I then sat behind him and actually had to brake as he couldn't corner at speed like I could. Crystal clear streams flowed under the road endlessly and the forest was thick with bamboo and pine. It seemed I was now on the plateau where small farms were wedged between hillsides. I found the only ice-cream shop Tosan talked of and stopped for refreshment. Soon enough I was back at snow level after some long climbs and the long switchback downhill into Otaru began. I had devised a short cut and lost 10km from the trip by avoiding Otaru itself, this was all well and good, but the entire 35km to Sapporo was built up industrial or residential land. No rest on the bike, just timed traffic light after timed traffic light (Why can't they install sensors!!!!!!).
I suspected that the train that passed me a few km from Otaru had Tom aboard (later confirmation confirmed my suspicion) and I pedalled on. The only respite I received was once I hit the real city, where my track bike city riding experiences saw me dodging freely through traffic, flowing at speed and cutting corners faster than any cars; albeit, fully laden I did have to make sure there was enough room in the tight spots for my panniers!
I sensed I was close to the hotel and to Tom, but the street signage was less than helpful as the station signs which I was following had all but disappeared. I messaged Tom to check up and he was in town on his bike! I found my bearings and knew where I had to be. The town was a beautiful and less hectic version of Tokyo and I followed the main drag 'til I saw the Ramada sign, no bike to be seen. Dubious of my success I almost triumphantly messaged Tom to ask if he was in, reply: "Just checked in 30secs ago. Now in room, Your key is at desk. Bikes in cloak room." Doh!
I sensed I was close to the hotel and to Tom, but the street signage was less than helpful as the station signs which I was following had all but disappeared. I messaged Tom to check up and he was in town on his bike! I found my bearings and knew where I had to be. The town was a beautiful and less hectic version of Tokyo and I followed the main drag 'til I saw the Ramada sign, no bike to be seen. Dubious of my success I almost triumphantly messaged Tom to ask if he was in, reply: "Just checked in 30secs ago. Now in room, Your key is at desk. Bikes in cloak room." Doh!
I found him whacking away incessantly on the drum sticks he'd brought to practice on. After a shower we were onto a food hunt, a quick browse of electrickery and into the old Sapporo brewery beer house for all we could drink beer (in 100 mins) and BBQ. Following that we searched for a COUPLE OF HOURS for an ATM that would accept out cards as Tom had lost 20,000 yen in cash ($AUS200). We rejoiced after penny counting enough small change to buy a burger each, the humiliation still stings. Once we had money it was more beer at a Spanish bar!!
Day 13: Base camp Sapporo
We were under the weather. Strong coffee and donuts for breakfast (tip: the best coffee in Sapporo is at any Mister Donut). The cable car was shut as they were renovating so we caught a tram around town for a while before heading up the tower for a look. More shopping and roaming then it was off to the Sapporo beer museum for some learning and cheap beer.
The city had been taken over by a festival, most of the main streets were closed and bunches of teenage dancers were running about in file from one performance to another. There were also a couple of beer gardens on the main strip and we stopped for beer and Yakitori before heading back to the room for warm clothes so that we could hang out there.
We feasted on all kinds of Japanese delicacies then settled into a few quite ones. We had seen not a single white person on the trip until day 11 in Hirafu, and since then only a handful, even in Sapporo, so we did stand out a little. Is that why we were constantly offered free food and cans of beer by those surrounding us? We had a ball and met over half a dozen great people who knew enough English for us to have a laugh and learn a little about each other. The BEST way we could have ever envisaged farewelling such a fantastic country!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped for a quick Japanese whiskey and Tom a Guinness (he was trying to reintegrate I suppose) and then bed before the day of our departure.
We were under the weather. Strong coffee and donuts for breakfast (tip: the best coffee in Sapporo is at any Mister Donut). The cable car was shut as they were renovating so we caught a tram around town for a while before heading up the tower for a look. More shopping and roaming then it was off to the Sapporo beer museum for some learning and cheap beer.
The city had been taken over by a festival, most of the main streets were closed and bunches of teenage dancers were running about in file from one performance to another. There were also a couple of beer gardens on the main strip and we stopped for beer and Yakitori before heading back to the room for warm clothes so that we could hang out there.
We feasted on all kinds of Japanese delicacies then settled into a few quite ones. We had seen not a single white person on the trip until day 11 in Hirafu, and since then only a handful, even in Sapporo, so we did stand out a little. Is that why we were constantly offered free food and cans of beer by those surrounding us? We had a ball and met over half a dozen great people who knew enough English for us to have a laugh and learn a little about each other. The BEST way we could have ever envisaged farewelling such a fantastic country!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped for a quick Japanese whiskey and Tom a Guinness (he was trying to reintegrate I suppose) and then bed before the day of our departure.
Day 14: Sapporo to Chitose - 45.1km
We wanted to get to the airport relatively early to ensure any problems could be solved before our 1710 flight. A long stretch of built up highway had us on a slow roll with enough time to reminisce over the last couple of weeks. I must admit it was emotional entering the the airport from the opposite direction to which we had ridden out two weeks earlier, better men for it, and in our minds, pioneers in what we had just accomplished.
Right up until the police stopped us and started taking down our details for riding illegally through the tunnel. Once they realised we were leaving their country and would be out of their hair within hours they were happy to let us go. So we found our stored bike boxes and got busy repacking. They were once again searched prior to checking in, this time by slightly bemused security staff who were impressed with my Japanese knife and whiskey stock. Luckily our baggage was checked all the way to Sydney so it was time to really relax with a HUGE seafood set meal, a flight, another meal of some kind of veggie seafood ball and beer, then the long flight home. We awoke to Sydney on a Sunday morning, shitty weather saw me on a packed bus and back to Canberra.
We wanted to get to the airport relatively early to ensure any problems could be solved before our 1710 flight. A long stretch of built up highway had us on a slow roll with enough time to reminisce over the last couple of weeks. I must admit it was emotional entering the the airport from the opposite direction to which we had ridden out two weeks earlier, better men for it, and in our minds, pioneers in what we had just accomplished.
Right up until the police stopped us and started taking down our details for riding illegally through the tunnel. Once they realised we were leaving their country and would be out of their hair within hours they were happy to let us go. So we found our stored bike boxes and got busy repacking. They were once again searched prior to checking in, this time by slightly bemused security staff who were impressed with my Japanese knife and whiskey stock. Luckily our baggage was checked all the way to Sydney so it was time to really relax with a HUGE seafood set meal, a flight, another meal of some kind of veggie seafood ball and beer, then the long flight home. We awoke to Sydney on a Sunday morning, shitty weather saw me on a packed bus and back to Canberra.
The bike survived, luggage survived and Tom and I more than survived, we thrived! I hope your pixelated eyebalss were worth the effort and you now understand some of what Tom and I experienced. This really is an area of the world that needs to be seen untouched and in its full sureal glory before it all inevitably changes.
I hope to write some more about the trip, helpful hints and recommendations. But this is enough for now so thanks for coming!
I hope to write some more about the trip, helpful hints and recommendations. But this is enough for now so thanks for coming!
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